Canada to Cabo 2000    Biking the Continental Divide   Paddling the Sea of Cortez

Throughout the expedition, we used a small satellite communication device to send e-mail updates from every meadow, mountaintop and beach along the way.

Updates are arranged newest to oldest...

~~ C2C Epilogue ~~

The emotional rollercoaster began as we drove north through Baja, catching glimpses of the ocean here and there, hearing the wind dance with the palms as we camped out. We both awoke confused most mornings, wondering what strange place we were in, a place that wasn't a beach, our boats not right beside us.

We crossed the border on Jan 15th, and within hours I was on a plane for Tucson. It was our first parting of ways in 162 days. I felt in a daze as I walked through LAX in ragged shorts, salty shirt, sandals, and a small drybag as my only luggage. My mind and attire were still on expedition, and it was somehow comforting.

In a couple days I'll drive my truck full of bike gear and our dog Chili back to California, and Heather and I will begin the last part of the project: putting together packages of reviews and slides for all our sponsors, organizing slide shows, writing a few articles, and co-writing a book about our journey. It'll be trial and error, just as we didn't know for sure if we'd ever really make it to Cabo, but the philosophy remains the same: All glory comes from daring to begin.

To all of you who joined us, supported and prayed for us, we are forever indebted. It would have been nothing near the same without you. If you get the time, drop us an e-mail. We'll keep the mailing list assembled, and let you know when the next one is about to kick off. The idea, i should
mention, is already born......

Heather &
Brandon

CHARGE LIFE !

Charge Life Team
United States - Wednesday, January 17, 2001 at 07:08:27 (PST)

Update - Day 162

WE HAVE ARRIVED!!! 4500 miles and 5 moons to Cabo! H & B

Charge Life Team
United States - Friday, January 12, 2001 at 08:59:21 (PST)

Update Day 160

WHALE ENCOUNTER! this morning, as bat rays flip- flopped around us like hot
cakes at a diner, we were paid a visit by one of the earth's largest
creatures: a giant grey whale. an amazing 100ft in front of heather's kayak,
the monster breached just barely, a sign we interpreted as "get your camera
folks, there's gonna be a show!" 10 seconds later as i clicked away it rose
again, this time 1/2 the previous distancc off her bow. in our front row
seats we watched as nearly all of its massive form arched noiselessly from
its world into ours. the finale was postcard perfect, as its tail rose &
spread full width, waving us hello & goodbye. the adventure continued as we
pulled up to san jose del cabo. (our landings were both nice & controlled, i
might add). gawking gringos, fast moving traffic around every corner, guards
shooing us off fancy hotel premises... it was major sensory overload. the
experience peaked when we walked into the mercado comun, an open air
conglomeration of 10-12 tightly packed ristorantes. within seconds they were
on us llke hounds at feeding time. from elderly, stooped over senoras to
loud, desperate sounding hombres, representatives from ALL the different
kitchens begged, promised the impossible, verbally groped for our business.
the effect was a mixture of confusion, guilt, claustrophobia & a total loss
for words. we finally just took a place at the nearest table, more an act of
defense than anything, & the pack around us immediately disolved. a few
minutes later, as we waited for our food, we watched a hindi family of 3 fall
prey to the attack. all 3 of them unwillingly ended up at different tables
throughout the place, shouting to one another, as if their eventual reunion
weren't altogether certain. the food, it turned out, was sensational! h & b

Charge Life Team
United States - Friday, January 12, 2001 at 08:57:25 (PST)

WHALE ENCOUNTER! This morning, as bat rays flip-flopped around us like hot cakes at a diner, we were paid a visit by one of the Earth's largest creatures: a giant grey whale. An amazing 100ft in front of Heather's kayak, the monster breached just barely, a sign we interpreted as "get your camera folks, there's gonna be a show!" Ten seconds later as I clicked away it rose again, this time half the previous distance off her bow. In our front row seats we watched as nearly all of its massive form arched noiselessly from its world into ours. The finale was postcard perfect, as its tail rose and spread full width, waving us hello and goodbye. The adventure continued as we pulled up to San Jose del Cabo. (our landings were both nice and controlled, I might add). Gawking gringos, fast moving traffic around every corner, guards shooing us off fancy hotel premises... it was major sensory overload. The experience peaked when we walked into the Mercado Comun, an open air conglomeration of 10-12 tightly packed ristorantes. Within seconds they were on us like hounds at feeding time. From elderly, stooped over senoras to loud, desperate sounding hombres, representatives from ALL the different kitchens begged, promised the impossible, verbally groped for our business. The effect was a mixture of confusion, guilt, claustrophobia and a total loss for words. We finally just took a place at the nearest table, more an act of defense than anything, and the pack around us immediately disolved. A few minutes later, as we waited for our food, we watched a hindi family of three fall prey to the attack. All 3 of them unwillingly ended up at different tables throughout the place, shouting to one another, as if their eventual reunion weren't altogether certain. The food, it turned out, was sensational!

H & B
Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, January 09, 2001 at 16:40:41 (PST)

~~ Update - Day 159 ~~

The sea of cortez is now behind us, and the north winds & waves that we have come to know so well have been replaced by long, graceful pacific swells. Last night we fell asleep to the sound of surf pounding our steep beach, but with a beautiful 12-14 second gap between waves; plenty of time to launch without mishap. We paddled a short 10 miles today, the rising sun's glare comfortably off our sterns as we headed southwest toward San Jose del Cabo. Though luxury homes and hotels prevail, there are still long stretches of unspoiled beach to camp on. Having chosen one, we spent the afternoon swimming in the surf and were entertained by schools of bat rays leaping like dolphins in groups of 2, 3 & 4. The lights of the city are just west of us, a glowing reminder that our goal is near. Three short, easy days could put us in Cabo on the 10th, as planned. But if the pacific is anything like its sister the sea, it's anyone's guess what adventures are still in store. (for instance, I took my first good beating today. I misjudged the set of swells I was following in upon landing, and failed to get a solid grip on the beach. The backwash of the preceding wave flowed like a river down the steep incline, taking my kayak and me with it. Flipped over, the gear on my deck was stripped off and scattered. I recovered everything but lunch: a 3 pound tigerfish I'd caught an hour earlier. Fortunately, for breakfast I'd eaten my fill of humble pie)!

H & B
Charge Life Team
United States - Monday, January 08, 2001 at 08:16:09 (PST)

~~ Update - Day 158~~

It seems as though we could not have asked for a better time for a norther.
Did ma nature know that less than a week from our final destination we were
not quite done? With self-realizations and revelations hitting us like bolts
of lightning day after day, we needed time to decompress. Brandon and I spent
hours walking on the beach, talking. Talks that continued into the wee hours
in our makeshift wind shelter. Our talks were honest and pure. Thoughts were
sorted, ideas analyzed and even our true selves were open for discussion. We
were our own toughest critics. Our ability to speak so candidly and listen
with open minds was proof alone that we have grown. After two days of this a
peace seemed to settle over us and the winds began to relent. The last
night of our weather induced layover turned out to be the frosting on the
cake. Carl and Cynda, homeowners on the beach, invited us over for a fiesta
at their house. There was no shortage of great food, company or fun. in fact,
we stayed up til 11pm...four hours past our normal bedtime. In the morning the
seas had calmed to a quiet roar, the winds not yet a memory. But it was smooth
enough to paddle. We took advantage of the day putting in no less than 30 miles.
We are less than 60 miles from Cabo.


Charge Life Team
United States - Monday, January 08, 2001 at 08:14:55 (PST)

~~ C2C Update - Day 155 ~~

We're just south of Los Barilles, pinned down once again. For two days we've waited through wind, rain, and unrelenting seas, though no opening has shown yet. Our tent is pitched between our kayaks and is kept standing by six or eight lines tied off to the boats. Still, the wind holds it at about half its full height. We're two or three days' paddling from rounding out onto the Cape Region, where north winds are blocked off once and for all. So tantilizingly close, yet the lesson is now clearer than ever: it is not the destination, it is the journey.

H & B
Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, January 04, 2001 at 07:49:09 (PST)

~~ C2C Update - A Toast ~~

This is a toast, a tribute, homage paid to a piece of gear, without which (I shudder at the mere thought!), I wholeheartedly believe we would still be in the first couple hundred miles of the paddle, or more likely we would have gone mad, completely insane! And to think, we included it only as an afterthought: the rudder. If you'll recall, our day of battling the horrendous Wyoming wind on our bicycles prompted us to order a rudder for each kayak, which we installed while at my parent's. That day was a blessing for which I'll forever be grateful! As part of my river kayaking education, I've learned countless strokes, draws, sweeps, sculls, prys and braces to keep a squirly craft on line through explosive, frothy, chunky conditions. I figured surely I could keep a long, stable boat meant to go straight, going straight on relatively consistent waters. The rudder, I excused, would be for those rare "blown up" days, just to save some exasperation. Foolish, foolish child! We've both used the foot pedal-controlled steering devices every single day out here, without exception. Being the one mechanical aspect of the entire boat, they were almost guaranteed to break down at times, and mine has. Each connecting cable has snapped, and for the time I paddle with the rudder in its stowed position, I've felt like a motorist who's suddenly had the wheel come off in his hands! I'll paddle 20-30 strokes just on the left, blade as far out as I can reach it, the boat heeled completely over and still I can't turn the sucker. As soon as we land I'll carefully repair the part, tying off the splice like a surgeon completing a triple bypass.

Heather's boat's design, the Arctic Tern, has apparently been built over 800 times, with her being only the second to have installed a rudder. We joke about by whom and where those boats are paddled: a two acre pond in Vermont, early morning before the leaves rustle, by elderly men who towel them off and apply a coat of pledge furniture polish after each use. Coming out of La Paz, the unthinkable happened: my rudder blade snapped off! Luckily Heather grabbed it as it hung by a corner, but for the rest of the day I paddled in a zig-zag course, like a sailboat beating into the wind. The boat wanted only to track parallel to the waves, and I could also make bits of progress with the seas directly astern. When we finally reached camp I set to work. With swiss army knife, leatherman and a jig saw blade I feverishly cut and drilled the hunk of aluminum into a mountable, usable -if smaller- rudder. With it bolted in place, I was like a proud Dr. Frankenstein as my creation came to life; a desperate junky who'd finally gotten a fix. Take our sleeping bags and we'll huddle for warmth; take my paddle and I'll claw my hands through the water - but spare the piece of gear we came so frighteningly close to going without. I pledge allegiance to the rudder!

H & B
Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, January 02, 2001 at 06:54:30 (PST)

~~ C2C Update - "In a Nutshell" ~~

As we paddle to the end of our expedition, our lives seem to be just beginning. Our spirits are soaring, our minds are racing with ideas. Our long journey was not just an adventure, it was a ride into the depths of our souls; a first descent into the far reaches of our minds. It was life altering, eye opening exploration into the most intricate groundwork of who we really are. It took months. Through Montana and Wyoming all our energy was focused on adjusting to our new gear and life, and skirting all the forest fires coming at us from every direction. By the time we hit the beauty and clean air of Colorado, guilt and uncertainty were our primary emotions. Was it right for us to take six months off to virtually play? New Mexico brought an end to that as we reached the "why?" stage. Downed by illness and stopped by severe storms and impassable roads, we were just plain tired! Reaching Arizona was like a hit on the head. We had just ridden 3000 miles! Brandon's parents, his brother, their friends were so thrilled, so proud, so encouraging, it recharged us. And as we worked on our boats, the 900 mile paddle on the Sea of Cortez became a reality. Reaching Baja, spending a week in San Felipe, was when it really hit: we are doing a cool thing! People are stoked, we're stoked, no one should feel guilty. As we paddled away, the more miles we put behind us, the more our minds wandered, our little heads bursting with huge dreams. Our visions changed day to day, hour to hour, but it was o.k. Our minds and bodies had finally gotten into a groove. We were finally exploring our inner selves. Now, with Cabo less than two weeks away I wonder what have we learned? How do we feel? I can only answer for myself: I feel like after 28 years I have met the real me.

The one who dreams big and isn't afraid to chase those dreams. The girl who walks with her head held high and lives a life of adventure. I am not afraid of love. I am not afraid to fail. I am strong and I am proud. This isn't the new me, its the me that I found and urged to come out somewhere between Loreto and La Paz. When I think about the day brandon and I paddle into Cabo, I feel giddy. To have my parents here to celebrate our accomplishment means the world to me. I am in love, I'm happier than I've ever been, and it only took me 4,500 miles to get there!

Heather
Charge Life Team
United States - Monday, January 01, 2001 at 08:11:00 (PST)

~~ C2C Update - Day 150 ~~

With our goal of Sabo San Lucas now less than two weeks away, we're in the mood to sprint to the finish and start the celebration. Ma nature, however, has kept us in check. Having left la paz thre days ago, we've paddled into fierce headwinds and river-like tidal currents, and have come a mere 22 miles. We've set anuary 10th as our finish date, and with Heather's parents already on the way and my brother flying in to meet us, we WILL pull it off! If conditions allow us to average 12-15 miles a day, we're set. Or, if we do have to hole up for a few days, we'll put in some 30-milers and still make it in time. The main factor is that the Sea of Cortez is beginning to give way to the wide-open Pacific. As volatile as the weather's been, this could be a blessing, or it could easily prove to be the crux of the entire journey. Regardless, there's only one approach that works out here: day by day!

H & B
Charge Life Team
United States - Saturday, December 30, 2000 at 05:05:59 (PST)

~~ C2C Update - day 147 ~~

The past five days we put the pedal to the metal and with the help of some nice
weather paddled 125 miles and arrived in la Laz in time for Christmas. We decided since we can spend any day on a secluded beach, why not throw
ourselves at the mercy of la Paz and its 150,000 people for the holiday! We went all out for the occasion, a nice hotel with a pool and hot tub, room service and we exchanged presents we had hidden in our boats since Loreto. With two weeks remaining in our journey our spirits are high, our bodies are healthy and we are stoked to begin the home stretch! Cabo San Lucas and huge hugs and margaritas from mom and dad Christensen and brother Nelson are just around the bend!

H & B


Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, December 26, 2000 at 15:20:01 (PST)

~~Day 141~~

"Sea kayaking wasn't meant to be an adrenalin sport, but sometimes it is!" -HC

Subtlety can be a dangerous thing. Heather and I both resort to it when one of us first awakes, sits up, and delivers the report on the conditions. "Looks to be some...texture...out there," Heather might offer. Or I might start the day with, "I sense a bit of...activity...on the sea." It's nothing more than a defense mechanism, really. By verbally downplaying the frightening conditions, we can begin the mechanical steps toward getting packed up and on the water. This morning, this very thing occurred. While a group of 7 kayakers, led by my old friend Chris Taylor, deliberated and ultimately decided to stay on the beach, Heather and I set out. What awaited us around the first point would've made the comment, "It's completely blown-up out there!" a little too subtle. Once out of our cove, we immediately found ourselves in 8-12' seas out of the northeast. The wind was a mild 10mph an the swells were without too much chop or irregularity. Yet we've experienced enough spontaneous and rapid changes that we didn't like the odds. We knew around the first major point was a protected beach. We'd go no further than that, we decided. Though we made steady progress, I was taken aback by the sheer size of the swells. We'd be traveling together up a wave's face, side by side, up and up, til Heather would reach the peak and it'd drop out from under her. At times I'd follow her 30-40' back, when a wave would catch me and deposit me at her side, or run my bow into her stern. Heather later wrote in her journal: "Thinking, absorbing the situation wouldn't have been wise. Instead I rolled with it." We eventually made it to the point, around which the conditions, no matter how...lively...they already are, are guaranteed to intensify. We gave it more room than usual, as the giant swells became barrels crashing onto the reef and rocks.

In mountaineering there are false summits; in sea kayaking there are false points. As we rounded this one we realized the real point lay ahead, 2 more miles. The beaches in between, what few there were, were all rocks and taking the surf head on. Two days ago Heather had taken her first crash landing, flipping and rolling up in the surf. It was clear that remaining on the water along this stretch would be far safer than trying to land. We pressed on. By then the wind, and therefore the chop, had really kicked in. Alternating forward strokes with low braces, we were probably being surfed and blown faster than we could've paddled. Our point drew near, and the sun had just cleared the horizon as we began the rounding. The sea had none of its steel blue color, but instead was blanketed with wind-strewn foam. I've run miles upon miles of class V whitewater without half the focus I had this morning. If Heather was scared or unsure, it didn't show. "I was eerily calm," she wrote. "I took deep breaths, concentrating on filling my lungs, then slowly releasing the air. I kept my thoughts simple: stay loose, breathe, and if we stay together we'll be fine." The rounded point exposed one final 20 minute stretch, a smaller point, then the safety of our cove. The wind along this section took the cake, as gusts kicked up spray all around us and tugged mightily at our paddles. The last turn was outside a reef that exploded with giant surf. Rounding it, we stayed extremely wide, and finally the classic long strip of white sandy beach, a cove of still water, our refuge. As I paddled in, Heather had stopped 20' from the sand, and commented that this would be the greatest landing of the trip. It was indeed. We hiked up the cliffs and watched the raging seas in awe. We talked for hours about our experience and what we had learned. Then, as all Brandon and Heather stories seem to end... we feasted. Nothing like biscuits and gravy to soothe the soul.

Heather and Brandon
Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, December 21, 2000 at 18:21:44 (PST)

A Poem: "Baja Tragic"

In case you've had enough of all the baja magic, we thought we'd fill you in on some baja "tragic." Like the time we were soundly asleep on La Playa, when a coyote crept in and stole our papaya! On inflatable pads we've slept nightly for weeks, now both are full of uncountable leaks! Though sleeping 'neath the stars is restful and pleasing, the mornings are often-times downright freezing! The sunrises are awesome and always spellbinding, but the glare that follows is horrendously blinding! An ungraceful entry one morning he took; as he flipped upside down, with laughter I shook! The smell of red cedar filled the air one morning, for without so much as a moment's warning, and with a crack that would scare the b-jeebies out-o-you, my one-piece wood paddle had hence become two! Every morning we paddle a mere hour or two, before I get the overwhelming urge to pee or poo! There's wind almost daily and man how it blows: it'll force the snot right back up your nose! A radio we hear so in-frequently, instead brandon sings, quite off key! Although we get along with amazing grace, sometimes we do get in each other's face. 24/7 we're never apart, but at times we want to tear out each other's heart. Yet we resolve these conflicts as adults should do, and end up kissing an saying "I love you!" Fishing boats don't always see us as they buzz around, and several times we've come close to being run down! Despite practicing with devoted persistence, we both remain horrible judges of distance: as a point that we'd swear is a mile away, still isn't reached at the end of the day. Though our apparrel keeps us warm and safe, it's also the cause of rashes and chafe! It was late afternoon as we left Mulege, my boat barely floating as we paddled away. The river was shallow, my boat overpacked, as my paddle scraped the bottom, the blade fully cracked! By the time we leave the water for the wind-swept dunes, our hands look and feel like soggy prunes. Our wounds are all open, oozing and wet: the sea hasn't let them heal quite yet! The fishing is good, they're abundant you see, but the reef fish I spear behave unusually. Their insides seem sickly, their guts do stink. "What will happen if I eat this?" I can't help but think. Though they're tasty and numerous as drops of rain, eating fish has been causing me awful migraines! The long days on the water never fail to excite us, but we often end the day sore from tendonitis! The long sandy beaches we think are great, its the sand that gets in our food (water, boats, ears, hair, dishes, cook kit, clothes, sleeping bags...) we really do hate! Don't misunderstand us, we don't mean to pout, that's not what this poem is all about. The incredible experiences have all been grand, but one thing's for sure: this ain't Disneyland!

H&B
Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, December 19, 2000 at 05:19:52 (PST)

~~Day 136~~

Day 42 of our kayak leg brought us to our first island of the trip, Isla Coronado. It's a small island located opposite Punta Tierra Firma whose main body is an extinct volcano. Coronado is part of the Parque Marino Nacional Bahia de Loreto. We chose a private sandy beach on the southern tip of the island. After a lunch of homemade mexican pizza I set off exploring while Brandon lost himself in a second reading of "The Perfect Storm". As I made my way north, not only did I find palapas built and maintained by the government especially for kayakers, but the park system had also installed a self composting toilet and a nature trail! Later that evening as we sat around the warmth of our fire we watched as the afternoon winds picked up and the seas grew fierce. Dark clouds filled the sky. Then, as we were enjoying our apple cobbler desert, the unexpected happened...rain! We finished our cobbler then quickly set up the rain fly. It rained off and on throughout the night but as we loaded our kayaks in the morning, the winds had died down and the seas had calmed dramatically. The problem was the dark forboding skies and occasional lightning strike in the distance. Not sure which way the weather would turn, we decided to make the short paddle to the peninsula. To our delight, as the sun began to rise, rays of light made their way through the stormy skys and basked us in its warmth. Another perfect Baja day had begun. We reached Loreto, the first permanent Spanish settlement and the first capital of the Californias, by 8am.. We plan to spend two days in Loreto...a hot shower, haircut, laundry, Christmas shopping and a 2 week food buy are in store.

H&B
Charge Life Team
United States - Friday, December 15, 2000 at 03:48:22 (PST)

~~Day 132~~

The past 3 days have been some of the most interesting of the trip. In fact, Saturday won votes from both of us for the best day of paddling yet! An honor made even greater when you consider that we went less than a mile before making camp. The setting was centered around Punta Pulpito- a 500' tall vertical-walled headland that's been called the most easily identified landmark on the Sea of Cortez. Friday night we had camped just north of the point, and were intrigued by the inter-connecting caves surrounding our beach. Upon setting out the next morning, we immediately came upon more coastal caves, and these could be paddled into! Growing narrower, they wound into the earth. We'd stow our paddles and crawl our hands along the ceilings til their ends. Sevral kinds of crabs scuttled along the walls as we explored, adding to the already eerie, unworldly noises that filled the rock rooms. We wished we'd brought a recorder to take inside with us, as there's no way words could define what we were hearing.

As we slowly made our way towards Pulpito, the sky filled with the deepest red we'd seen in a sunrise, and the distant barking of sea lions barely broke the silence. On the point itself, we were amazed again by a huge rock tunnel that we did loops through while shooting photos. The water at this point was as clear as ever, and filled with myriad tropical fish of all colors and shapes. I don't think we stopped laughing the whole time; it was completely unbelievable! A couple hundred yards further presented another tall rock arch, unique and photogenic as the first. We'd shot over three rolls of film since we set out an hour earlier. We then spotted a 1/2 mile long white sand beach amidst all the glory; we knew we'd found our camp. There, we hiked a trail that led to the summit of Pulpito, went snorkeling time and again, and found some great bouldering along the water's edge.

However, the cherry on top came that afternoon when a "herd" of well over 100 dolphins swam by our camp. Many took turns launching themselves free of the water, landing with a huge splash. Then, the lead dolphin, at the point of the entire crowd, rocketed twice as high as any other, landing nose first with hardly a splash!!! Pure la-la land!
H & B

Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, December 12, 2000 at 05:18:49 (PST)

~~Day 129~~

We saw the greatest sea lion today; so animated, so human. All we saw at first was a fin in the air and a belly swaying with the waves. We approached on the sly... quiet as mice. All the sudden we were only a few feet away when something in his brain screamed "WAKE UP!" He jumped... If he'd been sitting on a chair he would've fallen off. Then his whiskered head reappeared larger than life. Neck craned E.T.-style, his eyes big as saucers as he looked at Brandon, then at me, then back at Brandon before disappearing in the depths of the sea with a final splash.
H & B
Charge Life Team
United States - Friday, December 08, 2000 at 19:33:47 (PST)

~~Day 128~~

The sea is back to its wily old ways- a pattern I thought may've been a thing of the past; a condition reserved for further north. Since we left Mulege Monday afternoon, we've made it only twenty some miles. We woke this morning near Punta Santa Rosa, finding more wind and chaotic seas. Its always a challenge after a hearty layover, like ours in Mulege, to be faced with long days stuck on a beach. The desire is to get out and charge...to put some miles in and get a little of that soreness that means we're working! We went for a pre-breakfast hike out to the point, which created a sheltered cove of still, waveless water. We took a swim that lifted the cobwebs from our spirits and motivated us to do some paddling...wind, waves and all. We raced back to camp, ate some cereal and loaded up to go. The seas were partially whitecapped with a steady wind blowing, but nothing like what we'd seen up north. The obvious crux facing us was getting out through the surf: 2-3' swells that broke up to 200' out. For Heather it was cake: she got in her boat, spraydeck secured, paddle in hand, and waited for a lull...then I'd tow her into knee-deep water and with a final push send her on her way. Within 30 seconds she was safely floating outside the break, watching and waiting. Launching oneself through the surf is a fine art, and one I have not yet mastered. One method is to get ready in the boat, as Heather did, and try "walking" with your hands into the sea. Works fine in glass, but add some surf and I almost always end up parallel to the waves, scrambling back out of the kayak as it fills with water. Keep in mind our boats, loaded with food, water and gear, weigh 125-200lbs. Another method, the one I tried this morning, is to walk the boat out into the surf zone, hop in, paddle out past the breakers, then secure the spraydeck. On mornings like today's...WAY easier said than done. On my first attempt to "hop in" I got half way there before the boat rolled on its side. I spent the next few minutes frantically wrestling the wave-tossed kayak as I hand-pumped most of the water out of the cockpit, all the while questioning our logic in leaving. On my second attempt I was in and paddling out through the surf, and as my boat was nearly full of seawater, I made it out. After again pumping my boat empty, (a balancing act I'm quite proud of), we set off. We rounded the point and put in another four miles before the conditions took a dramatic turn for the worse. 6-8' swells lifted and tossed us, growing more intense as we rounded the day's final point, Punta Coloradita. As luck would have it, we spotted another protected cove with glassy water. Too perfect to pass up, we made camp and spent the rest of the day snorkeling, spearfishing and shooting photos.
Heather & Brandon




Charge Life Team
United States - Friday, December 08, 2000 at 19:32:41 (PST)

Day 125

After 12 wonderful days in a row of paddling, we arrived in Mulege. This was a landmark stop for us: its about the half way point, has one of the best bakeries in Baja, and is home to Bill & Judy Cull. The Culls live in Sacramento 3 months a year and Mulege the other nine. As luck would have it, they saw our story in the Sac Bee newspaper and invited us to stay with them on our way through. We gladly accepted. We had our own room with bathroom and TV/VCR, a huge yard to lay our gear out, and a full workshop at our fingertips... We decided to take advantage of the situation and spend a few days doing some much needed boat maintenance. We also took our first showers and did laundry for the first time since San Felipe! The Culls were wonderful and quite experienced hosts. Many adventurous travelers and wandering souls have been invited into their home. In fact, in the exact spot where we repaired the dings in our boats, Graham Mackintosh's burro grazed. (Graham authored the adventure classic "Into a Desert Place"). After three days in Mulege, we were homesick for the ocean, and the Sea of Cortez welcomed us back with open arms.

As we paddled away from Mulege in the afternoon wind, the waves were just beginning to cap. We quickly realized we were not the only ones enjoying the surf. A school of dolphins had come out to play. They'd swim over to us, then disappear into the depths right beneath our boats, only to return surfing within a wave coming right at us, riding the wave as it passed under us. It was a welcome home we'll never forget. Our experience on the beach as we set up camp was no less memorable. Four militaristas approached us, curious as kittens about the two gringos on the beach with hand-built kayaks. After a short conversation they disappeared down the beach, to return 30 minutes later with armloads of firewood for us and proud grins on their faces! Baja is a place filled with magic. It raps you in its arms leaving you feeling warm and loved. Today like every other day has reminded us of its wonder and let us know that along with the dolphins, rays and turtles ... we are welcome. We are home.
H & B
Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, December 05, 2000 at 05:11:47 (PST)

Day 120

Yesterday afternoon, we made it to the town of Santa Rosalia, after a final 2-day push of nearly 60 miles. Our food and water supply was nearly exhausted, not to mention our bodies. We spent the last few hours of the paddle talking about the sweets and treats we'd devour when we hit town, and boy did we: donuts, fruit pastries, ice cream cones, cheesecake, sodas, chocolates, shrimp tacos, pizza, the works! We both had full-blown sugar hangovers today, but I say it was worth it! We'd hoped to find a safe place to leave our boats while in town, and we settled on tying up alongside the dock in the local marina. The kayaks looked awesome floating amidst a full array of sailboats, and they drew a fair number of visitors too. Among them were the crew from the cutter "Emma Nell." We'd met them in San Felipe while they were re-fitting before the voyage south, and had a blast sharing stories of the past few weeks. I learned a nice thing talking to those sailors, a lesson on the power of limits. As we shared stories, it became clear how much more of Baja Heather and I had experienced, not in spite of our small craft, but because of them. It was great seeing their eyes grow with wonder while we told of the hidden nooks and beaches we'd found, the coyotes singing us to sleep, and the amazing people we'd met and befriended. It was all unknown to them. True, they're free to make greater crossings and sleep in their bunks out of the wind, and there is no denying that I dream of sailing the world's waters more than any other sort of dream. But our kayaks are like passports to a whole extra side of Baja that is hidden from the sailboats. Hopefully I'll be able to keep that in mind the next time we're holed up behind a rock, waiting out a norther!
H & B
Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, November 30, 2000 at 21:10:21 (PST)

Day 118

Wow - 8 days of paddling in a row! We covered about 140 miles and, weather permitting, will be in Santa Rosalia sometime tomorrow. The sea has been treating us so kindly: letting us have a choice in which beach we camp on, rather than the wind blowing us into one and feeding us so very well. On the day after Thanksgiving, still "hungover" from the mass quantities of food we ate for the holiday, I landed a whopping 20lbs. bass! It wasn't easy bringing him up on my deck, but we got him home and that night we ate fish tacos 'til we nearly burst! Yesterday, just north of Punta Trinidad, we paddled up to a most amazing island. Despite its tennis court size, it was host to 100's upon 100's of our feathered friends, the pelicans, gulls, cormorants, etc. as well as 50-75 sea lions of all sizes and attitudes. The setting was surreal. As we got to within a stone's throw of the place, all the fowl took flight in a circling, swarming, crying cloud of life. Following their lead, the sea lions slipped, rolled and waddled themselves into the waters and, curious as kittens, they paraded around our boats, alternately stealing long looks at us with their necks craned, and diving playfully beneath the surface for a swim. We took photos as we floated and laughed, in total awe of the scene. The magic reached its peak today, though, as we were blessed with water like glass for our entire 28 miles of paddling. Not a single bit of chop or more than a ripple passed beneath our boats. And in the late morning, straight off our bows as we crossed a mile-wide bay, we glimpsed our 1st whale! Into the still air his breath shot a spray of water like a geyser, and each time it hung there for nearly 1/2 a minute. Before departing, he broached the surface just enough to realize his immensity, and to remind us: there's no place like Baja!
H & B

Charge Life Team
United States - Monday, November 27, 2000 at 19:33:07 (PST)

Day 116

Aaahhh, Thanksgiving. A day of feasting. A favorite holiday for Brandon and I. We started off the holiday by allowing ourselves the luxury of sleeping in til 5:45. then, even more of a treat we had breakfast. Most days we just snack as we paddle. We were on the water by 7am and paddled 2 hours to Cala Mujeres, a small cove we had chosen the night before. It was everything we had hoped for. A private cove within a bay. With rock walls on its north and south ends, it was protected from the wind and surf. a beautiful white sand beach lay in between. The water was crystal clear and calm and large reefs made it perfect for snorkeling and fishing. As soon as our boats hit the shore we both headed back to sea...anxious to discover what the ocean would provide for our thanksgiving feast. Brandon set out trolling in deeper waters while I donned my mask, snorkel and wetsuit, grabbed my hawaiin sling and went spear fishing. Less than an hour later we had 6 spotted bass and one mystery fella. For starters Brandon deep fried some fish and onion rings while i munched on cookies and hot tea. We lounged in the sun, read, and relaxed the afternoon away. But we were soon hungry again and ready for the real feast. Veggies, potatoes and fresh fish cooked over the fire...topped with melted cheese and wrapped in warm tortillas was the main course. For dessert we devoured a pan of moist, warm apple raison bread baked in our fry bake pan. Stuffed to the gills and happy as clams, we climbed into our sleeping bags feeling something like beached whales. Hopefully everyone enjoyed their thanksgiving as much as we did!
H&B
Charge Life Team
United States - Saturday, November 25, 2000 at 17:28:15 (PST)

Day 112 Finale!

As I was saying, Ifinally took up the rod. It may as well have been hooked into a whale! The rod bent over into a tight arc as I strained to keep it upright. I fooled with the drag, trying to find the balance between tiring the beast and sparing my gear. I couldn't believe the line or rod hadn't snapped! As Heather shot photos, I continued the game of tug-o-war. God, what a setting it was: a 40' wide steep pebble beach surrounded by sheer cliffs on 3 sides, and being loudly pounded by surf head on! As I fought to land the "fish" it occurred to me that if I did succeed in pulling it in, what then? Surely Heather and I couldn't eat the leviathon! And how does one "catch & release" Jaws? Nonetheless, the fight raged on. Then the beast made the witty move of wrapping the line on a rock. I could still feel his pull, but it was obvious there was something wrong. I tried to give him slack, so as to free the line, and in doing so I ended up with a tangled mess on my reel. I kept at it for 5 minutes or so, then decided to play a new angle and re-launch. Heather helped cast me out into the waves, and I reeled in slack in between paddle strokes as I made my way out. I tried circling around the snagged rock, and in doing so realized the tangle on the reel was keeping the drag from working: line could still come in, but none could play out. When the beast pulled, my kayak nearly flipped, and I braced to stay upright! This happened 3 or 4 times, and as my heart threatened to pound itself right out of my chest, I chose to surrender, and cut the line. I never got a look at the giant sea creature, whatever it was, but I know this: there WILL be others!
Charge Life Team
United States - Friday, November 24, 2000 at 18:02:38 (PST)

Day 112

On the second day of our bike ride, up in Montana, we met the Peter Busch family camped out at red meadow lake. In the midst of our conversation, Peter made the comment, "ou WILL see a grizzly out here!" I clearly remember, rather than conjuring up an image of a bear, his statement struck me as unusually similar to a comment made to me weeks before, in Sacramento, by a fishing tackle salesman, "You WILL hook into a shark out there!" The way they each stressed "WILL" was identical, and since that day we indeed saw a grizzly, I've been waiting to see about that shark. Today may have been the day. I say may have because I didn't land it, but the story is still worth telling. We had just finished a 2 hour crossing of Bahia las Animas, and had resumed paddling after a stretch on the beach. I've had most of my luck fishing in shallow, rocky waters, and wondered if I was presently wasting my time, as the vertical cliffs 50 feet away seemed to keep heading straight down where they met the water. I was trolling a silver and blue rapala about 30 ft back, the rod in its holder just in front of my paddling range. Then...zzziinggg! The reel whined for a full 5 seconds before letting up. A moment later it took off again. Heather and I looked at each other eyes and jaws agape. I would've reached for the rod and gotten on with the fight, but like I said, I was a mere 50ft from shore, and 1-2 ft rollers were coaxing me that way. If I grab the rod, that means I ditch the paddle...and control of my boat. I thought it better to try heading out a bit 1st. While the rod bent over into a question mark, the reel whining out occasional line, I tried to head out further. Nothing doing! I was the one being towed. Minutes passed and no, I still hadn't picked up the rod. Was i a bit frightened, you wonder? Ii was. I didn't really like the thought of bringing an angry, god-knows-how-big, flesh-ripping beast up to the side of my low-slung craft. By this point we'd come by another, much smaller beach, and I thought to try landing the monster there, me out of my boat. I sent Heather in first, and saw the landing to be unusually steep and pounded by surf. Her boat swamped before she could haul it out of the waves, and as she wrestled it I paddled in. On shore, the rod end still jerking, I ran over & helped heather, then raced back, and for the first time, took hold of the rod... continued tomorrow...

Charge Life Team
United States - Wednesday, November 22, 2000 at 18:29:21 (PST)

C2C Update- Day 110

Friday morning we paddled the 15 remaining miles to the town of Bahia de los Angeles. We spent the day refilling our food and water bags for a two week stretch to Santa Rosalia. Finishing up right at dusk, we met up with our kayaking pals Ben and Gorav, and all paddled to a secluded beach for a feast. Heather and I rose early Saturday morning, set out to cross the bay, and were merely 1/2 way across when we found ourselves paddling in the gnarliest conditions to date. As darkness gave way to the day's 1st light, we were forced to go with the wind and waves into the shelter of a cove. 36 hours later, the wind blowing 25-30 knots, we're still here. Picture a 1/4 mile long stretch of white sand with the gutted remains of the ss minnow, beached and facing the sea, directly in the center. Huge granite boulders enclose the beach on either end an behind The only company are osprey, pelicans, and a coyote. We're camped in the lee of the old cabin cruiser, and what a great windblock! We've cooked, eaten, read, slept, stretched, tinkered and just hung out in relative stillness, while the wind rages around us. This morning, after Heather pulled a dinner's worth of clams out of the sea while snorkeling, we hiked over the rocks to a stretch of gringo get-away homes. With 2 empty water bottles and a ziplock bag, we intended to "manifest" a gift of water and some sugar. As we strode along the mile-long enclave of distinctly different houses, shacks, and trailers, we found the place all but deserted. Finally on the return walk we spotted a friendly-looking fellow and thought we'd at least say hello. The greeting turned into one of the liveliest conversations I've ever had, and from there evolved into a christmas-like bearing of armfulls of gifts. Jim and Pam Plake were as infected with the magic and allure of Baja as any folks we've met. Imagine our excitement when we learned they were the parents of world-famous extreme skier Glen Plake! Glen had just finished racing the Baja 2000 for Team Kia, winning his class! Jim was full of stories of their adventures here in Baja and his energy for life raged like the wind! They loved hearing of our adventure and loaded us up with fruits and veggies, pancake mix and syrup, new batteries, enough fishing tackle to take on anything from here to Cabo, not to mention the sugar and water we sought. They filled us in on good camps we'll encounter, beach front friends of theirs we should look up, weather reports and an all out hearty dose of high-charged enthusiasm! Now settled in for the night, our dinner of pasta in clam sauce warming our spirits even more, the seas are finally starting to calm and the coyote has begun a goodnight serenade, his yips and howls eerily echoing off the rock walls of camp.
H & B
Charge Life Team
United States - Sunday, November 19, 2000 at 18:39:34 (PST)

c2c Tale - "Brian"

Our camping spot in Calamajue was separated from the "village" by a rock outcropping. Though there were no shacks along the stretch, on its north end lay the wrecked rigging from an old trawler. Camped out among the wreckage was Brian. Brian was an american, and was living in a lean to made from his 10' aluminum rowboat. He'd been there for 2 weeks, having left "from up north" 2 weeks before that. He'd been tagging along with the local fishermen on their outings, had not a peso to his name, nor did he speak a word of spanish. He looked to be the definition of the word "vagabundo"...a lost soul who at his wit's end who chose a boat and the sea over a street corner in the city. I could feel little but sorrow for him, as his persona was one of great despair. He lived on cigarettes, coffee and fish, traded for with his dwindling assortment of odds and ends. When the norther blew he "fasted," but for the food we shared with him. He had no interest in learning or reading, or in trying to improve his circumstances. His response to most questions was "Whatever the good Lord wishes for me." His look fit his attitude: long scraggly hair with shells braided in, missing teeth unshaven face, and a slouched posture with his head always hung low. He often muttered endlessly to himself, which, considering his diet, seemed pretty normal. He was generous with what he had. He gave me a jar of coffee within 5 minutes of meeting. He claimed to be fully aware of the dangerous section that lay just south of us, and showed no concern for his safety when he again set out. If he was meant to die down here in Mexico, it was God's plan, and he'd take it. I'll forever wonder about Brian's fate, and I hope our paths cross again one day. Buen suerte to you, Brian!

Charge Life Team
United States - Sunday, November 19, 2000 at 18:24:13 (PST)

~~c2c Update - Day 107~~

It was a magnificant day! After being forced off the water by a norther at 8am yesterday, we decided we'd start early today, weather permitting, and put the wall behind us. We woke at 3am to a calm, cool morning. We were on the water by 4. we paddled 5 hours, stopping only to fuel our bodies with peanut butter tortilla wraps Brandon made the night before. We had made it to Punta Remedios, and the official end of the wall. We pulled off at a sandy beach for quesadillas and a breather, then we were off into the most amazing scenery we'd seen yet. It felt like we'd entered paradise. Our boats silently sliced through the glassy water leaving 2 small wakes trailing behind us. Through translucent waters we could see the vivid colors of the fish below us. Islands dotted the coast, and the shore was covered with white sand beaches. As thrilled as we were to explore the endless abyss of beauty, it seems we were drawing some attention as well! Two flying fish wanted a closer look at me, as one landed in my lap and the other nailed my hand! A sea lion stared coriously at us with his big brown eyes before continuing on his way. A dolphin jumped 10 ft behind my boat, then, what I thought to be a rock turned out to be a giant turtle swimming beside my boat. He lifted his head long enough for me to snap a few close-ups. But the best was when a flying manta ray rose from the depths of the sea like he'd been shot from a cannon, disappeared, then made a second and final appearance, leaving our jaws hanging wide open. The day went on like this...perfect conditions, an abundance of wildlife, and picture-perfect scenery. Finally at 2pm, after 10 hours and about 30 miles, we pulled off. We are camped on a rocky beach, about 1 mile long with a single 25' tall Cordon cactus smack in the middle. The spot is appropriately called Punta Cordon. Tomorrow we hope to arrive in Bahia de los Angeles, where we'll buy a two week food supply before heading back out to discover more of the magnificant wonders of the sea!
H & B

Charge Life Team
United States - Saturday, November 18, 2000 at 17:15:37 (PST)

~~Update Day 105~~

We rounded Punta Final early saturday morning, having dined the night before on pasta and over 20 wallet-sized clams. In calm seas we made it to the fish camp of Calamajue, an outpost of 30-40 fishermen and their families. By the time we'd done a short hike to look around, a norther had begun that had both us and the fishermen high and dry for 2 1/2 days. While we made no progress towards Cabo, the experience among the villagers was unforgettable. The only livelihood in Calamajue is fishing. Each (calm) morning the men take to their pangas and head out to the hot spots. Using baited handlines, they spend up to 6 hours pulling in tasty triggerfish. With 2 or 3 baskets full, they head in and ready their catch for the daily pickup. The truck that transports the catch to market also delivers supplies, mainly food and water. Though there was no formal store in the camp, they were happy to supply us with tortillas, eggs, cheese, limes and canned veggies...right off the shelves of their own casas. The several gallons of fresh water we needed, they wouldn't accept a single peso for. Yet when I gave one of the town's eldest, Francisco, a spool of fishing line, he was practically speechless. He wouldn't let me leave without giving me 2 gallons of water and 3 sodas, his family of 6 or 7 standing by him. Despite the hospitality of the people of Ccalamajue, we were growing quite anxious to start putting the wall behind us, and were thrilled to wake this morning to calm conditions once again. Today we paddled over 20 miles of the most spectacular coast to date. The wildlife in the air, sea and on land was fantastic: dolphins and sea lions abound, osprey and the usual fowl fill the sky, and coyotes trotting along the rocky shore. This morning, having my line in the water less than 3 minutes total, I landed a 24" barracuda and a 2 pound spotted bass. They cooked up famously into a pot of the best fish stew I've ever tasted!
Heather & Brandon

Charge Life Team
United States - Wednesday, November 15, 2000 at 17:04:30 (PST)

~~Update Day 101~~
Last night as sand drifts piled against our kayaks, the wind once again promising a near-sleepless night, the magic of baja showed even greater force. Sheri, from the nearest casa to our camp, walked down to insist that we all take refuge on her porch. And this morning as heather & I rose to ready for our pre-dawn put-in, down the beach comes Sheri again, with a care package of fresh veggies, teas, chicken, even new toothbrushes! It was yet another miraculous act of kindness that practically left us speechless. As we paddled out into Bahia Ganzaga, a huge sea turtle paid us a visit! A good omen for us as we near what is undeniably the crux of this run. We're camped out just north of Punta final, and beyond here is what's known as "The Wall." The name stems from the 50 or so continuous miles of coastal cliffs, which offer scarce landing areas and no signs of human habitation. As the wall begins its southern half it helps form the Canal de Ballenas, flanked on the east by Isla Angel de la Guarda. This bottleneck in the Sea of Cortez, along with several others in this region stretching to mainland Mexico, is host to some of the fastest tidal currents in the world. Entered at the wrong time, conditions too fierce to imagine are possible. With a dropping tide and reasonable winds, on the other hand, a 40 mile day could be the reward. If the weather cooperates, we'll be in Bahia de Los Angeles, safely past the crux, in 4 days. We're prepared to stay out for 10. Heather & Brandon
Charge Life Team
United States - Wednesday, November 15, 2000 at 17:03:17 (PST)

Day 100 Update

WOW! This place is intense! After our 20 minute paddle the other morning, we waited out the wind for the next 36 hours. Our beach, San Juan del Mar, could've been nicknamed "Hospitality Beach." What few people lived there came out to offer us shelter, dinner, & good company. As we ate chicken, potatoes & beans in the 1 room home of Jim Prato, it sounded like there was a freight train just outside. Jim said in his 35 years of Baja living, he'd not seen such consistent wild weather. Usually there was a break between north & west winds, he said, but this year they overlapped on & on. We were also hosted by George & Dorn of the "Plywood Palace. Having survived 4 days lost at sea in a disabled sailing dinghy, they were full of tales of the sea's fury. When I asked how big they'd seen it get, I was't surprised when they answered,"Well...today." It was wicked. By yesterday evening, though, it had calmed & we made our break. As darkness fell we put in under the near-full moon & made 12 miles. Up at 4:30 today & another 14 miles has brought us to Bahia Ganzaga. A few days ago we met another group of 2 paddlers, Ben & Gorav, & have camped near eachother by chance every night since Puertecitos. Tonight, our 100th day of the expedition, we met up with 3 bike tourers, a coast hiker, & all made camp together on an otherwise empty beach. At sunset we dug up about 150 clams & had the feast of a lifetime! Stories flowed freely, clams in garlic butter devoured, & friendships made in this desert wonderland. And as we ate the last potfull & started cleaning up, a westerly began that is now a solid 35 knots, sandblasting us & all we rode in on. Whether we paddle tomorrow or hole up once again... its riding on the wind.
Heather & Brandon

Charge Life Team
United States - Friday, November 10, 2000 at 18:12:00 (PST)

Canada to Cabo Update - Day 98

Its been a constant game of follow the leader...us and ma nature. But ma nature has proven her superiority over and over, constantly reminding us who's really in charge. It will be her decision and hers alone as to when we get to play leader. We spent all day yesterday hunkered down in a small cove, westerly winds gusting to 50+ knots constantly bombarded us and blasts of wind would kick up sprays of water that would rise and explode in chaotic fury. Needless to say we were more than happy to have our feet firmly planted on the ground. We spent most of the day fishing. When we weren't fishing we were eating. But, we were also anxious to make some progress. At 10:00 p.m. the tide was high and we had a 3/4 moon. The wind was calm. It was our chance to be leader in our lopsided game. As we left our protected cove, ma nature's presence was strong. We had winds picking up from the west and rolling waves from the north, a sign that a north wind was on the way. We paddled an hour and a half, cliffs and rocks loomed ominously above us and the crashes echoed as waves we could not see broke against the dark cliffs. We eventually took shelter in a small protected cove directly inland from Isla el Huerfanito. I set my alarm for 4:30am and we settled down for a nap. A few hours later there was a gentle wind blowing from the north as we prepared for our early morning paddle. We hit the water by 5:30 a.m. After 10 minutes the winds started picking up intensity. Another 10 and it was time to get off. We made a b-line for shore and made our first surf landing of the trip. Brandon caught a wave and rode it smoothly to shore. My exit was not so graceful, but it got the job done. The seas were angry, crashing waves as far as the eye could see. The sun had not yet risen but ma nature had once again claimed the lead. We are on San Juan del Mar bivvying behind an abandoned cabana til the sea's fury subsides.

H&B

Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, November 07, 2000 at 18:22:31 (PST)

Day 93

Last night was crystal clear, stars flooding the sky, & on the dark sea I
counted 21 shrimp trawlers working the waters. Heather & I were both passed
out by 8:00. The next thing I knew I woke disoriented, & looked up to see 2
flashlights in my face, & 2 blanketed men holding them. My 1st thought was
that they were somehow fisherman and I aggresively barked "Hola!" still 1/2
asleep. I hopped up into a low crouch. "Do you speak spanish?" they asked.
"I try to speak it," I shot back, entirely believing they were up to no good:
banditos, perhaps. As they walked around us I clocked with them, wound like
a spring in my uncertainty of the scene. My only thoughts were "How's this
about to go down?" and "What do I have at hand?" Heather was so still &
silent, I didn't even look to see if she was awake. "Where are you guys
from?" "California," I answered, & went into a speal about our trip & the
boats, both buying time & trying to make a connection. With the sea now
behind them, as they had come from inland, I could presently see both men
carried rifles. I'm sure at that point I stopped scheming on how to gain the
upper hand. "We're Mexican Military," the one in charge finally offered,
"Relax!" needless to say, I didn't. The conversation turned to drugs,
"drogas." Did we have any? Had anyone come by trying to sell us some? Are
we sure we didn't have any? I told them about an hombre in San Felipe who
tried to sell us shrimp & weed. Actually, I kind of re-enacted the scenario,
which got them laughing. Finally convinced we were clean, they wandered back
inland, telling me once more to relax. They camped a few hundred yards from
us, & in the morning one of them, rifle in hand, said "Try to relax!"

Heather and Brandon


Charge Life Team
United States - Sunday, November 05, 2000 at 08:45:01 (PST)

Day 91 Update

Tuesday went like clockwork. I woke at 4:30am to a crisp, calm morning. There was a definite vibe in the air... this was our day. I gave Brandon a nudge and we went to work. We carried our gear & boats back to the water, threw on our paddling attire & were ready. All our gear slid easily into place... odds & ends hastily thrown on top of our boats on Monday seemed to fit nicely inside today. 8 gallons of water, 5 days of food, clothes, tent, tarp, sleeping bags, cook kits, stove, books, med kit, fishing gear, desalinator, frisbees, yahtzee... it was all there. 5:45am, the sky was turning a beautiful orange & purple... the sun minutes from appearing. A few people from camp appeared, this was the moment we'd been dreaming of & everything was perfect. In the early morning silence we pushed off & took our 1st strokes towards Cabo San Lucas. In my mind i see 2 silouettes against a colorful baja sunrise... the sea calm... our kayaks & paddles leaving a faint trail in the still water. We turned & waved a farewell to San Felipe. The final leg has begun.
Heather & Brandon
Charge Life Team
United States - Friday, November 03, 2000 at 04:14:11 (PST)

Update Day 90

Brandon's dad & friend Bob arrived safely with the boats Sunday afternoon. By the time we had everything unloaded it was too late to accomplish much, so the 4 of us spent the evening painting the town red: 1or 6 margaritas, tall tales & good fun. Dad, we can't thank you enough! Monday, however, the chaos began. We arose early with expectations of a noon put-in. Our new friends at Playa de Laura RV park never ventured far...clutching their cameras, offering assistance, admiring our boats & raising their eyebrows at our mountain of gear. Noon came & went, then 1:00. We were still buying food, water, shoving king-sized bags into baby-sized spaces. Brandon left to run a quick errand...to return no less than 1 1/2 hours later. 2:00 came around. There were friends, vendors, strangers gathered on the beach, ready to witness our launch. Brandon & I were frantically throwing on our gear, strapping the homeless equipment on top of the kayaks. Our gear finally packed, our paddllng apparrel on, we took a moment to see our surroundings for the 1st time in hours. The sky was black, the wind was blowing & our protected cove had choppy, rolling waves. The fishermen were even off the water. I realized we were going to have to make the hardest decision of the trip: we decided to wait til morning to set off. It brought tears to my eyes as our small crowd applauded in support & went on snapping photos, & christened our boats with a bottle of vodka. As the gang helped us drag load after load of gear back to camp, the wind began to howl and didn't let up til 3:00am, rain began falling & we spent the evening in one of the RVs watching the Weather Channel, hoping for a break in the storm for our 5:00am start. Thanks Dad & Bob the navigator, & thanks to all the wonderful people in San felipe. You have a special spot in our hearts!
Heather & Brandon

Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, November 02, 2000 at 16:09:45 (PST)

~~Day 87 update~~
Having dreamed of reaching San Felipe for nearly 3 months as we cycled through thick & thin, it is everything we hoped for. Not yet in its busy season, we've had the beach almost entirely to ourselves. Laying around in the sun, reading, playing frisbee & cooling off with diving catches into the sea. A couple times a day we wander into town to feast on fish soup & tacos, practice our spanish with the locals, & trade out our paperbacks for unread ones. San Felipe lies in a somewhat protected bay, bodered on the south by Punta Estrella. Only a few miles off, it blocks from view the rest of the sea, making the upcoming voyage all the more mysterious. Yesterday our need to explore had us back on our bikes for a 40 mile ride to a valley of giant cordon cacti. We picnic'd & shot photos amidst the "redwoods of the desert", imagining what other amazing things we'll see down here. Another fun thing has been our inclusion into a group at our campground. For 8 years now, 6 or so couples reunite here every May & October. Ranging in age from 50-85, the RVers have welcomed us in their games of bocci ball, always see us off with waves & smiles on even our shortest jaunts into town, & have flattered us to no end with curiosity of our journey. We've given up trying to convince them we're not famous explorers, & just join in the laughter as the next round of cocktails is served! Also, we found ourselves having breakfast with Bob Haney the other morning. Now a resident of San Felipe, Mr. Haney spent 15 years writing the Batman comic book series. Presenting us with a signed copy of one of his books, his talent is overshadowed only by his humble kindness.
Heather & Brandon
Charge Life Team
United States - Friday, October 27, 2000 at 20:34:03 (PDT)

Update - Day 84

We just rode 3300 miles. We are in San Felipe...and we still like each other!!! Cheers!!!


Charge Life Team
United States - Wednesday, October 25, 2000 at 08:14:58 (PDT)

~~Day 82~~

Hola mis amigos! Estamos en Mexico! Things have been happening fast since we left Green Valley, AZ. Two 90 mile days brought us to the Mexican border Saturday evening. We camped at organ Pipe Cactus Nat'l Monument, rose with the sun, or rain I should say, & busted an early move across the border. Here we were faced with a dilemma: the 202km of highway 2, or "el camino del diablo" as some called it. The advice of the locals echoed in my head: no shoulder, too narrow, tons of semis & buses, at least 4 fatalities a week... They don't call it the Devil's Highway for nothing. "Let's just go to the bus station & ask if they take bikes & trailers," I suggested to Brandon, not thrilled with the idea of becoming a statistic. Upon arriving at the bus stop, we had barely uttered the words "San Luis" before our gear was neatly stowed under the bus, we were rushed to our seats, & were apparently on our way. I noted the lack of shoulder & semis whizzing by within inches of our bus. This was definitely no place for bikes; we were happy with our decision. After departing the bus & gathering our gear, we rode another 30 miles or so to the town of Coahuila, a mere 192km from San Felipe, baja, where our bikes & bodies will get a well deserved rest while we await the arrival of Brandon's dad with our boats on Sunday the 29th.

Heather & Brandon



Charge Life Team
United States - Monday, October 23, 2000 at 00:29:57 (PDT)

~~Day 79~~

Our visit is about over, and tomorrow morning we head out...
We finished up on the boats and bikes today, getting everything rigged and
loaded and in place for the next couple months on the sea. Our bikes are
completely revamped, and are running like brand new. I stuck with regular
inflatable tires, full of "slime", and am hoping for the best. The route
from here to San Felipe is mostly paved, and we're hoping that works in our
favor. The rendezvous with my dad and the boats is set for next
Sunday/Monday, so we'll be flat out boogyin' on the bikes to make it, but
we're feeling ready and confident. Mexico, here we come! (By the way, on
our ride into town last week we hit 3000 miles on the bikes).

Heather and Brandon
Charge Life Team
United States - Friday, October 20, 2000 at 10:47:25 (PDT)

Canada to Cabo day 63 (belated)

You will have to set yourselves back a few weeks before reading this update, our first attempt to send it out failed...but it was such an anticipated and wonderful experience, we thought we would send it out again.

New Mexico never ceases to bring us joy with its subtle quirks and delights. Amidts a harsh, dry land we have found windmills with water spickets and good drinking water, beautiful fall colors, afternoon rain to cool us off in the heat of the day, vast lava fields, and warm mornings and jacketless evenings we thought we had left far behind. But, the best part of all New Mexico we came across yesterday (10-4-00). From the day we left Rooseville, Montana we have been dreaming about Pie Town, NM. After a hot, hilly 45
mile ride...there it was! Like a mirage in the desert when there is nothing in the world you would like better than a glass of water. The
Pie-o-neer!!! And it was no mirage. It was tangible...it was open...we stared in awe at the cafe with pie so good the town was renamed for its famous desserts. Nita, a waitress, and pie town local, opened the door and broke our trance. She lured us inside with promises of ice water and the last two pieces of pie. We sunk down into a booth and Nita returned with
1/2 a chocolate merangue pie, still in the tin, 6 scoops of vanilla ice cream, two spoons and an invite to shower at her home! Thrilled that Pie
Town was everything we had dreamed it would be, we continued on our way the next morning. With Pie Town now a memory, and the Mexican border drawing closer with every day, my dreams have turned to awaking to the soothing sounds of the ocean lapping at my feet and the quest to make the best fish tacos in baja!

Heather and Brandon

Charge Life Team
United States - Friday, October 20, 2000 at 10:46:06 (PDT)

~~Day 76 Update~~

We've reached an oasis: my parent's place in Green Valley, AZ. The arrival was awesome, arriving to my mom and dad's welcoming hugs, our dog Chili's frantic and excited greeting, the comfort of knowing we've got a few days to just CHILL OUT!!!
While here, our primary focus is to complete the rigging of our boats. I pre-shuttled them down here just before we set out in August. Our ride through the Wyoming wind inspired us to fit our boats with rudders, something we had voted against while building them. If they only get used once, it'll be worth it. I've also got to fit my boat with a seat, fishing rod holder, etc. If you haven't already guessed, the boats haven't yet seen water. Sea trials and final rigging will take place in San Felipe, the starting point of the kayak leg. Hey, better late than never, right?!
Also while here, we'll be overhauling the bikes. The rain storm we rode through on our last few days took a serious toll on the components, cables, and so on. And against the wisdom of every serious cyclist in the country, i'm considering running solid rubber tubes for the last few hundred miles of the ride. Our plague of flats continued right up to my folks' house, fixing five that day alone. It takes a lot of the enjoyment out of the day, and despite what i'm sure would be a hellish-handling cycle, i'd be beside myself to wake up one morning with firm tubes all the way around.
Heather and I are feeling healthy, empowered, very well taken-care-of, and thrilled to keep charging the expedition. Hope everyone is well.....
Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, October 17, 2000 at 21:51:17 (PDT)

~~Day 72~~

Our arrival in Silver City on Oct. 7th marked the accomplishment of another huge milestone for us: we had successfully put 2000 miles of the Rocky Mtns behind us! It was time to start heading west. The weather reports warned of a huge rain storm coming strait at us. Too amped to wait it out, we decided to meet it head on. We spent a night in Lordsburg, then on to Coronado National Forest (which they tell us is beautiful... we couldn't see it through the rain). Today we arrived in Sunizona, AZ. After 48 hours of incessant rain, it had everything we needed: an RV park, restaurant, mini-market & laundromat. We hit the restaurant 1st, selfishly pulling our table in front of the warmth of the fireplace. We were soaked to the bone. While eating we met "Art" who offered to let us sleep in the shell of a motorhome he was renovating. YES!!! After getting a cocoa from the market, we took our tent, sleeping bags & the clothes off our backs & threw it all in the dryer. The weather forecast mentioned floods for the area. Less than 150 miles from Brandon's folks' house in Green Valley, it will take more than a mere flood to slow him down. When I asked him what it would take for us not to ride in the morning, his answer was, "Unless there's stuff bigger than us floating down the road, we ride!"
Heather & Brandon

Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, October 12, 2000 at 19:19:38 (PDT)

~~Day 66~~

Our proximity to the border clouded my vision.  The excitement of completing the 1st leg of the expedition had my mind wandering ahead to a few days of R&R.  Not to worry, though: I do have my bike to keep me firmly rooted in reality and rooted I have been.  In the past 3 days, covering less than 100 miles, Heather & I have collectively experienced 18 flat tires. EIGHTEEN!!! The thorny desert has contributed to some, the steep, very rocky terrain has chipped in a few more & most dramatic of all, two tubes in a row on my rear wheel have exploded with the sound of a shotgun. The tubes literally split about 12 inches along the seam, blowing the tire off the rim in the process. Consequently, my tire's sidewall now has about 16 inch-long gashes, through which the inflated tube bubbles out of. We've cut up some plastic to place inside each gash, to contain the tube. We've had to repeat this process about 6 times, each time my tire has a flat again. Although its gotten almost comical, its definitely taking its toll on our patience, & our mileage: today we made 17 1/2 miles in 7 hours. As we ride & pray our way through the last few days of this leg, although the experiences have been amazing & memorable, both good & bad, I have to admit that I'm eager to reach the transition and trade in these mechanical mounts for our simple kayaks!
Heather & Brandon


Charge Life Team
United States - Saturday, October 07, 2000 at 21:51:08 (PDT)

~~Day 60~~

The flu wallopped me like a sledge hammer. Fortunately it hit during a ride to a town. I was bed-ridden for 3 days & 4 nights, & then it broke at least enough for us to ride on. We knew we'd better get moving when we found ourselves discussing different carpet options for the motel room. My appetite finally returned today at lunch, but I lost a lot of valuable upper-body weight I was counting on for baja. I think I'm as thin now as I was as a 12 year old! My energy level is at about 60%, enough for the recent rolling hills & short climbs. The trail gods welcomed us back in style with a heart-stopping electrical storm. The trail jesters made their presence known, too, as what is now my 3rd rear wheel has suffered 4 freshly broken spokes. Nevertheless, we've come 128 miles in the past 2 days, & are in Grants, NM, for the night. It's great to be moving again!!!
Heather & Brandon

Charge Life Team
United States - Saturday, September 30, 2000 at 21:54:38 (PDT)

~~~Day 57 - Update~~~

I still remember the day I first heard about the Great Divide Mountain
biking trail. It seems like a lifetime ago! I was living in the bay area,
taking a spinning class at the local YMCA when my instructor told me about
the route, which was unfinished at the time. I knew I was destined to ride
the Great Divide. I have had a lot of time to think about the trail between
then and now. I have always had one re-occurring thought...New Mexico will
be the crux! Well...it has not let me down. The weather has been sudden,
fierce and unpredictable, the terrain has been some of the hilliest and most
technically challenging, and and water, food, services and human contacts
can be few and far between. Yet, for that same reason, I am enjoying myself
now more than ever. Neither Brandon nor I had ever bikepacked before we
left the Canadian border nearly two months ago. From day 1 we have been
eager students learning from our every experience and our every mistake.
New Mexico seems to be the final exam, and we have been stepping up to the
challenge. From nutrition, to the right tools and clothes, the right
amount of food and water... What to have extra of...and what is extra weight,
to food buys and bike maintenance and repair... It is an art that we needed
to learn and we have definately fallen into a groove. Before heading into
the wilderness for an extended amount of time where there is no food or
water we enter our exact coordinates into our magallen gsc 100 and in
seconds we receive a two day forecast. Out here rain means impassable
roads, an experience we've had far too many times! We have also been
experimenting with hot meals that don't require water to cook. Our favorite
is quessadillas with chicken. We don't have to waste precious water on
cooking or dishes. Any ideas out there? Our most important lesson has been
getting the right equipment. It has taken 2000 miles but i think we finally
have Brandon's bike dialed in! We haven't had to do any bike repairs in
nearly 500 miles! (knock on wood) We are currently at a stand still here in
Cuba, New Mexico. Brandon has the flu. As there is not a heck of a lot to
do here in Cuba...I have had a lot of time to reflect. All the amazing
experiences we have had, what the next 2000 miles will bring us, the support
we have gotten from our families and community back home, how is my puppy
doing, what will we do when we get to Cabo! And the kindness of strangers
who have time and again touch our lives and renewed my faith in mankind.
Foremost, I have been thinking about my parents back home in California.
They have been my most eager supporters...the behind the scenes backbone of
this journey for me. My trailer is always topping the wait limit with care
packages from home, they are my bookkeepers, support crew, storage unit,
accountants, listeners, my inspiration, and my strength when things are
tuff.
Thanks for all the love!

Heather and Brandon
Charge Life Team
United States - Wednesday, September 27, 2000 at 23:04:01 (PDT)

~~Day 54~~

Our last night in Colorado was one of pure magic: we were serenaded by bugling elk, the call of coyotes, & we woke to a rainbow stretched over our camp. The ideallic feelings it gave us were to last only until we hit the New Mexico border, where we were met by a storm like a freight train. Again, the rain, hail, lightning & plummeting temperatures were all easily endurable. It was when the road became unridable clay that the test began. For a while we could ride & push on the tussocky grass alongside, bouncy & battering though it was. But when we'd made it to within a mile of camp, with darkness spilling in, the bottom fell out. Hailstones like marbles pounded us & covered the ground, lightning struck the ground around us with thunder so deafening we covered our ears, & worst of all, our bikes had become useless, immovable gobs of clay. We detached the trailers & had started carrying the bikes when a pickup, slipping through the mess, rescued us. They brought us & our entombed gear to the camp, & Heather hiked to get water as I pitched the tent & tarp, all while the storm raged on. Heather cooked a feast under the vestibule, & we soon laughed at our narrow escape, now warm, dry, & full of hot food. Since then we've come another 100+ miles, missing snow yesterday by 15 miles. This morning dawned clear & blue, & the magnificent sandstone cliffs of New Mexico surround us.
Heather & Brandon

Charge Life Team
United States - Sunday, September 24, 2000 at 07:41:28 (PDT)

Retort to "Her Day"

If, after reading heather's "HER DAY" story, you feel like nominating her for "expedition guide of the century", you absolutely should! She truly does run every morning, lead the rides, navigate, do the foodbuys, cook 3 squares a day, keep her bike in order, the list goes on. One may wonder, what's left for me to do? In all honesty, not much! The more important question is, surely, "Why is this so?" Let's examine the whole foodbuying/cooking issue. Consider this: when I shop for food, especially on such demanding trips as this one, I have 1 goal: to find the highest calorie to dollar ratio in the supermarket! In restaurants, I don't ask the waitress, "What's good?" I ask, "What's BIG!?!" Not only does all this mean that I'm the easiest-to-cook-for person in the world, because I'll wolf down anything set
in front of me, but also that I'm clearly not the one to be managing all our meals. When's the last time you knew a young, fit California woman who let someone else control her diet? (uh uh, me neither!) As for going on hour-long runs at dawn: what & throw myself into an even greater calorie deficit before the day has properly begun? No way! I stay snuggled in my sleeping bag entirely for heather's sake, to keep her from having to prepare a whole extra meal every day (despite all my selfless behavior, I've still somehow dropped 19 lbs since we set out 7 weeks ago). And there are equally good excuses, err...reasons, to explain the rest of our seemingly lopsided list of chores. But I'll spare you those, & end by saying that my one greatest strength in
expeditioning is my uncanny ability to pick a great partner!

Charge Life Team
United States - Saturday, September 23, 2000 at 15:48:48 (PDT)

Here we sit, eating lunch at just over 12,200 ft, our odometers at 2000 miles!!! CHEERS!!! Heather & Brandon 37 27'30N, 106 33'15W, 12249FT, 01:16:41PM, 19SEP00
Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, September 19, 2000 at 18:11:02 (PDT)

~~~~Day 45~~~~
People have been asking what a typical day is like for us, so here goes... HER DAY: I've always been an early riser; I love to watch the sun rise & be a part of the start of each new day. This trip is no exception. I rise at the crack of dawn & go for a 45 minute- 1 hour run. It works out well: i get back as Brandon's just showing signs of life. I make our usual breakfast of oatmeal, brown sugar & tea while he breaks down the tent. After breakfast we each systematically pack our trailers. This is an art. Mine contains clothes, rain gear, fuel, cook kit, pots, stove, maps, books, bike repair stuff, sleeping pad & a day bag with lunch gets attached on top. I also carry up to 30 lbs of food. In Salida I had the chance to weigh my trailer: 86lbs! We try to make it out of camp by 9:00am. We have our system down & usually make it pretty easy. Unless, of course, we need to do some last minute repairs on Brandon's bike, which is pretty common. once we start peddling, we get in a sort of groove. i lead, i navigate, we both get lost in our thoughts & dream wild & crazy dreams. The sound of a popping spoke or flat tire usually signals break time. Lunch usually consists of pb&j or hummus on flour tortillas. On average we spend 6-7 hours in the saddle a day; 40-60 miles. We try to get to camp by 6:00 or so, and are we hungry!!! We've been lucky enough to camp most nights by a water source, so 1st thing we jump in or lay down in the river, lake or pond & get clean. Then I'm off to cook while brandon works on his bike. Tonight's dinner consisted of a pb&j, 2 packs of ramen for brandon, then a main course of black beans & spanish rice rolled in flour tortillas. Our favorite is stuffing with a few cans of turkey & chopped apple, topped with gravy & cranberry sauce. MMM! With our bellies warm & full we clean & lube our bikes, then crawl into bed with our books, journals, & a bag of cookies & say goodnight.


Charge Life Team
United States - Saturday, September 16, 2000 at 14:49:11 (PDT)

~~~~Day 42~~~~

It's as if the trip has reached another level. certainly it has to do with colorado. This place is heaven. Every day heather & i stop on our bikes, smiles across our faces, thrilled at the sheer beauty, the aura of where we are. The aspens are ablaze in reds & yellows, tunneling the trails we ride through, and on the mountainsides miles distant. Imagine the smell of this autumnal paradise. Too, the riding has been spectacular. We hit just under 11,500 feet on boreas pass, just out of breckenridge. we camped a few miles down the road near selkirk creek, & enjoyed the warmth & light of our 1st campfire in 40 days. Yesterday, we broke camp by 8am, & set out for our longest day. This time we pulled it off: 87 miles, with the greatest of cycling awards capping it off: a downhill, 12 miles of smoothe, sweeping turns, passing not a single car, all the way to the warmth of my old friend jere's welcoming home. And that explains better how this trip has reached another level. That inexplicable magic that seems to always accompany such trips. Perfectly timed, from the most subtle things, to the outright grand- it's been with us. this afternoon i've come up to buena vista, to visit a house i had a hand in building in '97. Rammed earth walls, 2 feet thick, with a south wall almost entirely glass, this home has a warmth & soundness i've never felt before. My friend read designed & built it, in part, so a boat could be built inside. As i sit here i can see the hull taking shape, & feel that same excitement of building our boats for this trip. Another element of the magic: knowing what's yet to come! tomorrow we're riding a classic 30 mile single track, peaking near 14000 feet. Needless to say, spirits are soaring!

Heather & Brandon.

Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, September 14, 2000 at 19:23:42 (PDT)

~~~~Day 38: Part 2~~~~

After 15 miles of steep assents & descents, we saw our next obstacle: a huge storm closing in fast. We've become accustomed to thunder storms & wind & rain & had our raingear close at hand. we donned the layers just in time. We spent the last 20 miles of the day in & out of the rain, although the crackle of thunder seemed to follow us. as we made our final descent to our destination, the town of kremling, the winds howled at 40 mph, the nearly horizontal rain pelted us; bottles, shrubs, small children blew by us on the street. We rode to the sanctuary of a cheap hotel, where we anxiously await the adventures tomorrow's 59 miles brings.

Heather & Brandon

Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, September 14, 2000 at 19:19:28 (PDT)

~~~~Day 38: Part 1~~~~


Til now our layover days have been dedicated to dealing with business: the e-mail list, the website, laundry, phone calls, fixing brandon's bike, etc. So when i set out for my usual morning run from our campsite on lynx pass, i realized we were surrounded by miles of single track, no phones, no towns...nothing for 40 miles. i knew a layover was in order, & layover we did: we rode 40 miles of technical, steep, & absolutely beautiful single track, topping out at 10,400 feet! after the day of riding, eating & napping, friday was a whole other story. The day began to wet sleeping bags & a huge puddle in our tent, as it rained all night & our "3 season" tent does't seem to be up to the rainy season. At mile 4 we came to what should have been an easy, dry riverbed crossing. Instead, our little friend the beaver had created a pond 3 1/2 ft. deep by 40 ft. wide. so, brandon stripped down to his zoic jersey & tevas, lifted 1st his bike then his trailer over his head & forded the icy water. I folowed, making 3 trips while brandon took pictures. We reconnected our trailers & were ready to move on.

Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, September 14, 2000 at 19:16:56 (PDT)

~~~~~Day 31~~~~~

As we embarked on our 4 day journey from pinedale to rawlins, we felt confident, although there would be no chance to buy food & very little water access in the next 225 miles. The 1st 2 days went well... so we decided to do the last 125 miles, the stretch with no water, all in 1 shot. had we known how far from that reality we were, we might have just stayed in bed. Our 1st sign of trouble was when we found ourselves surrounded by dark, angry storm clouds... & they were moving in fast. We bundled up in our raingear & moved on through the downpour. We quickly realized the rain wasn't a problem, but the road was becoming our worst enemy. The gravel road had turned into a thick, gooey clay. We had gobs of the goodness the size of footballs stuck in our forks... our tires, chains, pedals: all coated! trying to push the bikes was worthless, so we decided to wait it out. Luckily the storm passed & the sun appeared long enough to harden the clay. we cleared our bikes best we could & moved on. not home free, though. Brandon's bike started popping spokes! when he was down 5 (out of 32) we began to hike. We were about 48 miles into the day, the rain was dumping once again, & it was nearing 6:00 pm. After hiking 4 miles, we spotted a truck in the distance. We flagged him down & he drove us 20 miles to Jeffrey City. We told the driver "Just drop us in town." "This is town" was his reply. a bar, a gas station, a motel. We opted for the motel, & lo & behold, there were 2 other groups of cyclists taking refuge from the rain. The couple from belgium riding a tandem through the u.s., new zealand & australia had the tool & spokes we needed! (thanks gan!) The next day we decided to stick to the pavement for the 68 miles to rawlins. The winds gusted to 40 mph, the lightning was close enough i thought i could touch it, unending thunder & constant climbs... but we made it, had an all-u-can-eat buffet, & decided after 10 straight days of riding we deserve a layover!

Note: The prior update was day 28. Sorry I am kind of new at this. Nick (Brandon's Brother)

Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, September 14, 2000 at 19:14:43 (PDT)

Our 1000th mile came on top of union pass, at 9600 ft.it wasn't the only milestone for us: also atop the pass we rode into our 1st good storm.
The temperature steadily dropped as we climbed what was by far the most challenging hill to date. At the summit we broke for lunch, & the rain
began. We huddled under the tarp as we ate pb&j on tortillas, and bundled up in capilene, fleece, hats, gloves, & rain gear. The wind howled, &
it was downright frigid! We eventually rode down out of it though, & the stars that night were brighter than ever. Lately, more challenging
than the hills or the weather has been my bike. just before the climb up union pass, my pedal stripped right out of the crank arm. Most
fortunately, dale from nearby turpin meadow guest lodge drove me 100 miles roundtrip to jackson for a replacement. (thanks again dale). Days before
that, my fancy suspension seat post just buckled in half under me and since I had my rear wheel rebuilt, i've heard that heart wrenching "ping" of a spoke breaking 4 times! At least heather's bike has been humming along with no more than
a single flat tire since day 1. Regardless, we've settled in to a nice groove together. progress is steady, yet we're stopping to take more photos, hang out at more creeks, & we continue to meet some of the most genuine, kind-hearted folks ever. This is truly an amazing backyard!
At the moment we're in sagebrush & pronghorn country: camped out about 10 miles southeast of atlantic city, wyoming. 1168 miles into the journey.
Heather & Brandon
Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, September 14, 2000 at 19:09:04 (PDT)

** DAY 25 **

Today we raised or fists in the air and drank a toast to ONE THOUSAND MILES!!!

Heather and Brandon,
Charge Life Team
United States - Monday, August 28, 2000 at 12:28:31 (PDT)

They opened the south gate of Yellowstone and we made our escape. Now, here we sit at Colter Bay Campground on Jackson Lake. The lake is beautiful, the Grand Tetons as magnificent as pictures would lead you to believe. If you can imagine those jagged peaks, thick green forests, and occasional patches of snow that are so symbolic of the Grand Tetons...take it one step further and try to see it through our eyes. Imagine orange blazes of fire shooting up the trees, and thick brown columns of heat and ash rising up and merging with a sky where clouds and smoke are one. We just finished eating dinner...and no it was not rain or dust or mosquitos we were protecting our food from...it was ashes, falling from the sky.

Despite the seven fires and 12,000 acres burning in the Grand Tetons, and the additional 17 fires in Yellowstone (which they only have resourses to cover four of), we are feeling confident that a few more miles of riding will put the worst fire season in Montana and Wyoming's history far behind us.

Heather and Brandon,
Charge Life Team
United States - Monday, August 28, 2000 at 12:27:01 (PDT)

** DAY 16 **

I believe everything happens for a reason, so when Brandon & I were in the middle of Beaverhead-Deerlodge Nat'l Forest, I figured it was in answer to my call for more wilderness on our journey. We were smack dab in the middle of it! Trees & mountains were all we could see for miles. But, to play it safe, we decided that after a hearty feast & good night's sleep, we'd backtrack to where we thought we'd made our wrong turn. At 8:00 a.m., as we were about to begin 5 miles of pushing & riding our hefty loads ... "Timothy" appeared: A wandering, bikeriding collector of precious gems (a story within itself) who insisted we were heading the right way.

Thinking, "ahh, another sign," we commenced our ride into the unknown, glad we had 3 days of food left. Up & up we went. Pushing, riding when we could, making 3 miles in the 1st 2 hours. at every fork we stayed left. We were at 8000 ft elevation when we stopped for lunch. We 1st hiked out onto a ridge to take in the view, & what a view it was: In the distance we saw what could've been a farm, but what we hoped was a town. Down & down we rode for at least an hour, emerging in a small ghost town.

The 1st thing I saw was a train filled with about 25 camera-toting seniors. What in the world!? Then, simultaneously we saw the Virginia City post office. In 2 days we had managed a complete u-turn & were only 14 miles west of where we started the other morning. Good news is we made it to upper Red Rock Lake, having ridden 57 miles yesterday & staying at a cowboy's cabin, (thanks Jeff & Annie), & 25 miles today, & are finally back on the great divide trail (our detour around the fires lasted 8 days & 351 miles).

Unfortunately, this campground will be shut down as of tomorrow, due to extreme fire danger, so we're barely one step ahead. In the meantime, we are feeling excited to be back on course, a little wiser for the past couple days, & ready to take on some new adventures.

Heather & Brandon

Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, August 22, 2000 at 09:35:06 (PDT)

** DAY 19 **

We enjoyed being back on the route for one day... then another fire blocked our path in Flagg Ranch, Wyoming. Rather than bust a move directly around it, we snuck into Yellowstone Nat'l Park. Other than the south gate being closed, due to... you guessed it: A fire, the rest of the park is not (yet) on fire!

We spent the day hiking around the waterfalls in the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, & plan on hanging for one more day to see if our route opens. If not, we may seek a way out the east gate, then head south from there. Although we haven't encountered flames directly, we've not had a day in 2 weeks which wasn't smoky. Every sunrise & sunset has been a red orb in a hazy grey sky. The afternoon winds, too, have been relentless. They blew unabated all through the night when we were camped out at Red Rock Lake. The bigger gusts would shake us from our sleep, & our eyes would look directly to the giant Aspens which encircled us. Though they danced like crazy all night, not a single branch fell, and by dawn it was a dead calm.

At any rate, we're enjoying a couple days in this beautiful park. The wildlife here is truly amazing, as we can't go anywhere without seeing elk & bison, ospreys & golden eagles.

One last note, we understand that there are still unresolved glitches with our e-mail system. Please accept our apologies if you've not consistently been receiving our updates. Please spread the word that we'll continue to do as much as we can to get the system in order. Thanks so much,

Heather & Brandon

Charge Life Team
United States - Monday, August 21, 2000 at 15:22:31 (PDT)

** DAY 13 **

I hate to use the word "lost", especially after enduring the 30 most hard-fought miles of the trip. But the simple truth is that neither Heather nor I have more than a vague idea of where we are. We rode from the town of Ennis today, & into the Beaverhead Deerlodge Nat'l Forest. Along the way we climbed the mother of all hills; steep, miles long, & punctuated by the
most unforgiving, 8 inch high, rigid rubber water guides. We both went about 50/50 in our attempts to charge over them. The climbing led to false summit after false summit, through the occasional herd of cattle, & eventually brought us to the intersection where we made the fateful wrong turn. Or so we think.

See, that's just it: Chances are we're on the right path to take us south through the forest to re-connect with our original route. But the road has withered into little more than a pair of un-rideable ruts, & heading north by northeast at that. To continue on may drop us into one of the most vast tracts of wilderness in the U.S.A. & in the midst of the driest, most firey summer in this area's recorded history. We agreed that tomorrow we'll push & ride 5 miles back to our wrong turn, & try the other way.

In the meantime, we're clean, warm, stuffed with Heather's exquisite feast of chicken, stuffing, gravy & cranberry sauce, & snuggled in the tent for the night. I'll attach our current position for anyone who might want to plot our location. God knows we'd be interested in knowing.

Current Position: 45 09'13N, 111 53'37W, 6964FT,
09:55:20PM, 14AUG00

Heather & Brandon

Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, August 15, 2000 at 11:12:29 (PDT)

** DAY 11 **

Any journey covering 4000 miles & spanning 6 months is sure to have its fair share of unforseen events. These wildfires definitely qualify, but I have to admit: I never would've guessed we'd be forced off-route to the point of cycling down the interstate. Nonetheless, we just finished a 32 mile trek down the shoulder of I-15 south, from Helena to Boulder, Montana. Actually, it wasn't all that bad. Sure, being nearly blown over by the compounding gusts of 5 tailgating semis is less favorable than a quiet forest path along a babbling brook, but this is an expedition, and without high adventure in some form or another, it just wouldn't be the same! As for getting back to the route we intended to ride, we hope to pick it up again within another day & a half, somewhere around the town of Dell.

Our layover in Helena was great, hosted by our new friends Charlena & Jeff, a couple of outdoor gurus masquerading as attorneys until they hook up with us in Baja for the paddle to Cabo. While in their company we feasted like royalty, cleaned all our gear & selves, got the tour of that wonderful town, & vowed to return soon.

I also took the opportunity to have my rear wheel rebuilt with much heavier-duty spokes. Having broken two, it's been the only piece of gear that's been any trouble at all. Everything else is working [out] beautifully, & our choices as to what we've brought seems to be right on. We're back on the bikes now, & back on gravel roads for another 30 miles til we camp. See you in a few...

Heather & Brandon
Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, August 15, 2000 at 11:05:27 (PDT)

** DAY 8 **
We're 359 miles into the trip, & have things been happening! First off, we've been ironing out some wrinkles in the e-mail system, & we apologize to all who may not have gotten our early updates on time. The trail has been throwing us a few twists of its own... yesterday's ride took us through the most spectacular & beautiful landscape we've encountered. Technical single-track through dense wildflowers, huckleberries & pines, all on the edge of a steep, 1\2 mile wide canyon. It looked like prime grizzly country, & I wasn't too surprised when we snuck up on one. Heather hadn't seen it, & rode to within 25 ft of the beast before I whistled her to stop. She was directly uphill of it, & blocked from view by a 6 ft pine. We had the good fortune to ready our spray cans, & decide exactly how to announce our presence; the bear still didn't know we were there. It wasn't an option to try to sneak by, as the trail hairpinned & would put us right in front of him. so, figuring I might as well speak the local language, I raised my arms & let out the meanest, loudest roar I could. The grizzly turned & stood on his hind legs, which prompted an even greater roar from my lungs. At this the bear wheeled & beat it up the canyon. As I continued my act, Heather traded her spray can for a camera & snapped a few shots. After a bit, we rode on, roaring & singing for the next ten miles. As fate would have it, that may be the last wildlife, or single-track, we see for awhile. All the nat'l forests we need to ride through are closed due to the fires. The smoke has visibility to under a mile. At present, we're spending the night in a hotel in Lincoln, the Unabomber's old stomping grounds, as all campgrounds are shut down. We're going to try tomorrow to make it to Helena before all roads but the highways are closed. From there, it's anyone's guess what our route will be. But one thing's for sure: One way or another, we're riding to Mexico!

Heather & Brandon
Charge Life Team
United States - Tuesday, August 15, 2000 at 10:57:59 (PDT)

For the record, I voted to bring a shotgun. If it's kill or be killed by a 600# griz, I'm going out in a blaze of glory! That idea didn't fly with Heather, though, so when I awoke on our 1st night out to see a huge dark form eating our...sweaty clothes, I was a little miffed to have nothing more than a can of pressurized food seasoning to stave off imminent death. Heather's headlamp quickly revealed it was no grizzly, thank god, but the biggest whitetail doe I'd ever seen. Figuring death was no longer an issue, I tossed a pebble or two & promptly passed back out. Where I'm from, a sneeze will send a deer on a dead run for miles. This critter, however, had no fear - & apparently no sense (of pain) at all. While I slept like a baby, Heather spent the rest of the night guarding, or rather fighting for our clothes. She pelted the thing with baseball-sized rocks, as close as point-blank range, & finally watched it casually wander off around sunrise. This incident definitely begs a couple questions: If this is how attractive campers are to Montana wildlife, is the shotgun a good idea afterall? Secondly, if I can't even stay awake for such episodes, is it ultimately Heather's say as to what weaponry we carry? For now, it's salt & pepper spray as we ride on...
Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, August 10, 2000 at 08:37:22 (PDT)

Blair Witch Deer: Her Version

"Heather, how do I use this thing?!" I awoke in the middle of the night to a can of bear spray...or was it bug spray...inches from my face. Brandons' wide-eyed, panicked face was right behind it. This from the man who wanted to bring a shotgun on our expedition! As I grabbed my headlamp, I turned the can away from his face and showed him the trigger. Fortunately, my headlamp revealed there was no grizzly stalking our camp & eating our food... it was a deer. Brandon stood up, grabbed a small rock, tossed it at the deer and climbed back into the comfort of his warm sleeping bag & promptly began to snore. The safety of my loved one and our gear was in my hands. I gathered a stack of rocks and placed them near my sleeping bag. This would serve as my headquarters for the night. The deer watched my every move. I tested him with a few small rocks, no reaction... he just stared at me with that " I dare you" look in his eye. He's chewing on my sportbra! And where is my shirt? I went for a bigger rock. Thunk, nothing! He looks for a new chew toy. I load my hands with ammo and chase him through the woods, chucking rocks as I go. When I stop he stops, when I turn around he does the same. Together we walk back to camp. I'm losing my cool now. I need more rocks, bigger rocks. I chuck rocks the size of baseballs, softballs, footballs! In my rock throwing frenzy I hear Brandon mumble behind me "baby,put my stuff in the tent." As I toss our gear in the tent, the deer sees his opportunity. He has my helmet! I look around for a rock. They are all gone. The camp is clear. I charge him empty handed, adding a war cry for good measure. He runs too. he enjoys this game. But this time he stops, looks back at me, as if to say goodbye, and continues on his way. It is morning now. I hear Brandon start to rustle in his bag. He rolls over and spots me standing with my helmet in one hand and the remains of my sportbra in the other. "Morning baby. How did you sleep?"
Charge Life Team
United States - Thursday, August 10, 2000 at 08:25:32 (PDT)

** DAY 4 **
Hello everybody! Well..here we are. Day three found us riding 82 miles through thick forests, along creeks and through Montana farmlands. We are camped at Flathead Lake...the largest freshwater lake west of the Mississipi. we haven't seen any grizzlies yet...but we did get terrorized by a Blair Witch deer one night! But our spirits are high, we are eating like kings and we are feeling strong! Today we will spend the morning giving our bikes and trailers a little tlc...then we are off on a 33 mile ride (with a 6 mile uph